Week ending
4 Feb 06 (Bob)
Wrapping
up Visit to Marrakesh - After an enjoyable 3 days in Riad Magi
we packed and set out to retrieve our van from the local lorry
car-park - after a filling breakfast delivered to our room by our
friendly host. The main square, Djemma el-Fna was
getting organized for the the first non-rainy day in four and
already had snake-charmers, horse carriages, and a smattering of
tourists mixed in with the many locals. By the time we made it
out of town it was time to stop at a caravan park on the outskirts
of the city - much less interesting but at least we were on our way
'home'.
Casablanca and the Hassan II Mosque - We
missed Rick's Cafe on our short visit to Casablanca,
but did stop for the only attraction deemed worthy by Lonely
Planet - the Hassan II Mosque. This half billion dollar
mosque is the largest in Morocco, with the highest minaret in the
world and a capacity of 25,000 worshippers. It was dedicated
to the previous king of Morocco by contributors to a private
subscription on his 60th birthday. It is splendid from the outside
and reportedly beautiful inside, but unfortunately we missed the
last tour of the interior for the day - perhaps on a future visit.
We did the have passing thought that perhaps half a billion dollars,
properly invested, could help Morocco along the path to a better
future, but it does seem to be a source of pride to the country.
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Hassan II Mosque
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Hassan II Mosque arches
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Hassan II Mosque entrance
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Return to Spain - With lots of photos and
memories (and a few carpets) we retraced our route to Ceuta and
crossed to Spain on the last day of January - looking forward to a
few days of relaxation and stationary life before next week's travel
back to Italy and Long Passages, our forlorn floating
home who has probably been missing us sorely for the last 5 months.
Week ending
11 Feb 06 (Bob)
Breakfast in Spain, Lunch in Switzerland, Dinner in Italy - We
fancied ourselves as quite the jet-setters, even if we were
traveling on the low-cost EasyJet. We hopped our first flight
in Malaga, Spain and winged across the Pyrenees and Alps to Geneva, just in
time for lunch at the airport with (almost) a view of Lake Geneva.
The afternoon flight was a short hop across the Southern Alps to
Rome where we left a couple of bags in the locked baggage storage and took the EuroStar - a
fast and comfortable train from Roma Termini to the museum city of
Florence - drawn here by an email from our friends Peter and
Jeanette aboard the schooner Voyager.
Catching up with Voyager -
The reason that we diverted from our return to Long Passages
was that cruising friends, who were wintering over in Venice, were
in Florence for a brief visit. Their lovely wooden schooner is
moored on a small island off the Venetian Grand Canal - occupied
only by a marina and a monastery, sort of limited company in the
cold winter of Northern Italy. It was great to see them and we
shared stories and wine each evening while the day was devoted to
window-shopping and culture.
Fantastic Florence - And culture abounds in
Florence - a veritable outdoor museum. Everywhere you walk are
world-class sights, some inside museums and others outside.
The Medici family dominated Florence in the 1500's, and
brought artists and musicians to the city, among them Da Vinci and
Michelangelo, and left a wonderful legacy. Our map listed 39
museums ranging from Archeology to Zoology. To avoid
overload we confined our visits to:
The Duomo - This immense cathedral peeks
out at you from almost every street in the city center. Like
other structures of its size it took many years to build - 150 in
this case starting in the 13th century, and was finished just in
time to start rebuilding it. The stone-work was exquisite, the
bronze doors impressive and the overall impression is awesome.
The interior on the other hand is quite austere and solemn, unlike
the Basilica in the Vatican.
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Florence sneak view of Duomo
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Duomo impressive front doors
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Duomo overhead view
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View of bell tower
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Galleria
dell' Accademia - The claim to fame of this museum is
Michelangelo's David, a very strong sculpture of this
warrior after his defeat of the giant Goliath. It was damaged
by a vandal in the '90's but has been restored. The
museum
also houses many religious paintings and icons plus my favorite - a
collection of musical instruments from 17th to 19th centuries,
including violins and violas made by Stradivari and an old, upright
piano.
Galleria degli Uffizi - The galleries of
the Uffizi were an endurance test of viewing religious paintings and
icons - and we failed. For several hours we wandered the
corridors and viewed portraits of popes and masterpieces by
Michelangelo, Rubens, Titian, Da Vinci, and many other well-known
artists. The
gallery contains the family collection of the
Medici family before it faded from power after the 16th century.
Ponte
Vecchio - Reminiscent of the arched bridges of Venice, Vecchio
is a narrow bridge with shops hanging over the water on each side
with expensive jewelry, leather goods, and art-work. We walked
there from our hotel, admired the gold, chatted with a lady about
her simulated old paintings (not reproductions she assured us,
all originals in the style of the Old Masters), and left without
having spent a penny - a good time all around.
Walking the Streets - One of the most
enjoyable parts of visiting Florence (or Firenze as it
is called in Italy) was walking through the narrow streets with its
outdoor sculptures, hundreds of leather good shops, store-fronts
with beautiful products and artful presentation. One stop was
at the central food market where the fruits and veggies were bright
as artwork and laid out in perfect order.
Train Service in Southern Italy - After
three days in Florence we took the train south to Vibo Marina and
our lonely yacht. The Eurostar through train was fully booked
so we had to make a couple of stops. All went well until we
reached Rome, then things went awry. Our next train took us as
far as Formia for a connection south which arrived 1 1/2
hours late. During our delay the display boards were
inconsistent with the trains zipping by, the surly ticket agent
shrugged his shoulders when asked for information, and all
announcements were in rapid-fire Italian only. Finally a
helpful passenger led us to the correct train that did not match the
display board. Of course this made us miss our next
connection, the last of the day, to Vibo Marina so we diverted to a
different stop and took a taxi. The taxi driver neglected to
turn on the meter and tried to charge us �25 for a 10 minute ride,
and became indignant when we refused to pay. Every time we
have used the trains in the south we have been delayed - welcome
back to Italy!
Back aboard Long Passages - And
happy we are to be gently rocking in the marina back on our
trustworthy yacht. She has weathered the winter well so far -
thanks to friends on Calypso Flyer who added a couple of
fenders when the surge in the harbor became a little too strong.
She was clean and dry below, dusty on deck - but we are happy to be
home!
3 Weeks ending
4 Mar 06 (Bob)
Social Life in Vibo - We didn't realize how busy the little
community of cruisers kept themselves, but we found out as soon as
we arrived home:
- Songfest Fridays - When we arrived
from the train station late in the evening we were greeted by
singing from the clubhouse. It turns out that each Friday the
cruisers get together in the bar to share dishes, drink a little
wine, and sing. A happy end to each relaxing week!
- Birthday Party - We were lucky to be
there when Mike from Calypso Flyer reached a
milestone birthday, so this was an excuse for an even bigger
party - the sushi was great, although a little unusual to be
eating it to the strains of steel drum music from Trinidad.
- Boat Hopping - We used our short stay
to catch up stories from the past cruising season so we had Mike
and Shiho from Calypso Flyer and Martin and Ericka
from Minuet over for drinks and snacks.
Later in the week we visited Don and Katie on Klondike
and the couple on Piano, who have a full-sized
electronic piano installed aboard (who led a mini songfest
aboard).
- Valentine's Day - On the appointed day
most cruisers walked into town to Maria Rosa's,
our favorite spot in Vibo to share wine and pasta in this cute
downtown restaurant.
Paris - Alas, our stay in Vibo was too
short and our allocated 10 days passed too quickly, so on 22
February we got back on the EuroStar for the ride north. A
brief overnight stay in Rome and a 0400 walkup call got us underway
to a rendezvous with Sandra from Pacific Voyager in
Paris. Judi had decided to meet Sandra, a Fashion Designer as
well as fellow cruiser, in Paris this weekend since there was a
fashion fabric show going on - hence an opportunity to get a peek at
what would be new for 2007. Our three days at the Trois
Poussins Hotel were very enjoyable - Judi and Sandra visited
the fashion houses on the Left Bank and Rue St Honore while Bob
wandered the streets looking for technology stores and other sights.
The fashion ranged from tiny one-person shops to the giants like
Hermes, Prada, Gucci, Tod's and Louis Vuitton. The common
thread was high quality and high cost - how about $1000 and up for a
luxurious leather purse or cashmere scarf, or $25,000 for a small
leather chair? Judi found the PERFECT! handbag at Tods, but alas it
costs �800, sigh! The evenings were reserved for fine Parisian
cuisine - first with Frances, a prior student of Sandra in New
Zealand and then at Chez Andre, a quaint family-run
restaurant off the Champs Elysee. Contrary to much-quoted
stories, the waiters and waitresses were very friendly and outgoing
- another myth disproved. Everywhere products were on display as
artwork, from the fishmonger near our hotel to the fruit market and
the high fashion shops - presentation was as important at the
products. We left Paris with empty shopping bags but more fond
memories of this beautiful city.
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Fashions on display in Paris
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Fruit and veggies as artwork
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Our local fish monger on display
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Enjoying dinner at Chez Andre
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Back in England - After the whirlwind trip
to Italy and too-brief stop in Paris we are back in England,
visiting our friends in Ringwood and getting ready for a couple of
medical visits near our temporary base in Salisbury. More on
this next week.
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