Jul. 2004
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Check out Weeks ending:  [3 Jul 04] [10 Jul 04] [17 Jul 04] [24 Jul 04] [31 Jul 04]

Week ending 3 July 04 (Bob)

Back Aboard Long Passages - Our charter flight arrived punctually at 0400, a taxi driver waved a sign with our names, and soon we were taking a snooze aboard Long Passages for the first time in several months.  We slept late into the day after only 2 hours of snoozing on the plane.

Essential Repairs - Unfortunately we were greeted by a dead water pump, and a dying refrigeration system so we we set about to fix these and other items so we could resume cruising.  One week on, all are resolved except the refrigeration that will be visited by an expert next Monday - we may still get out on Tuesday as planned, but it is looking dicey.

Fishy Restaurants - We decided to introduce Bekah to a couple of the many restaurants that specialize in fish from their own fish farms.  At the one shown we shared our table with friends from Pegasus on a table that floated on a cool river - so cool in fact that the temperatures at the restaurant were a good 20�F cooler than on the street.

Roman Ruins - A short trip into the hills from Antalya brings one to Termessos, a Roman city guarding a pass from the sea.  It is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in Turkey, and has fortifications, baths, administrative buildings, and an amphitheater.  We clambered all over the city, despite the 90�F heat and while Bob and Bekah looked on, Judi gave a speech that sounded vaguely familiar:   "Romans and Countryman, lend me ..."

Week ending 10 July 04 (Bob)

Back at anchor - It felt good to be back at anchor for a change.  Our first day was a short one, a 15-mile motor trip to an anchorage near Kemer (36 35.9'N 30 34.6'E). It was a pretty spot, but the pounding night-life ashore made it difficult to sleep, so we decided to move on the next day.  This time a little motor-sailing thrown in to make the trip interesting.  We dropped the hook at Cavus Limani (36� 17.89'N 30� 33.2'E) a sheltered anchorage with clean water for swimming.   Temperatures all along have been high, 90� to 100�F with little relief at night. 

Visiting Finike - After 2 nights of 'roughing it', we pulled into Setur Finike Marina, a place we had visited by road but not by sea.  Although owned by the same company as Setur Antalya, the differences were striking.  Finike was:

  • Cheaper

  • Cleaner

  • Much better toilet and shower facilities

  • On-premise store was well-stocked and honest

  • On-premise chandlery was well-stocked

  • Water tasted better

  • People who had stayed there planned to stay again, and were happy with the marina.

  • Local stores carried current English and German newspapers and magazines

All of this in a small rural town that with much more difficult access to goods than Antalya.  It is a shame the way the Setur Antalya is being allowed to deteriorate.

Bekah's Intro - All of this was Bekah's introduction to the nomadic lifestyle of her aunt and uncle.  The first day she was a little queasy and seasickness medicine took care of the next couple of passages - now she seems to be fine.  She has enjoyed the opportunity to swim and snorkel in the Med with its warm, calm waters.  Fish life is pretty scarce and coral notably absent, but it has still been enjoyable.  She has pitched in with all of the ship's chores and acclimated herself very well.

Week ending 17 July 04 (Bob)

Cruising the Turkish Coast - We have continued westerly along the Turkish Mediterranean coast with the next big stop at Kekova Roads.  This is a barrier island protecting a complex of anchorages frequented by long-distance cruisers and the locals gulets alike.  Our first two nights were at Gokkaya Limani (36 12.68'N 29 53.57'E)with the sounds of an on-shore disco to lull us to sleep.  Then on to the center of Kekova at Ucagiz Limani (36 11.65'N 29 50.79'E)with remnants of an old castle on the hill and Roman-era sarcophagi lining the shore. Ashore in the small village restaurants vie for customers from all the passing yachts.  Mostly we motor in light headwinds, although the breeze sometimes lets us motor-sail. 

Never-ending Repair list - As always, things break and this foray is no exception.  After only a week of cruising our list includes:

  • Bilge pump burned out - a Rule brand naturally

  • Watermaker - not producing water

  • Outboard - failed on the way back from dinner

  • Instrument repeater - intermittent

  • Wind Instrument - direction indicator wrong

  • Navigation Computer - the laptop at the navigation station seems to have died

Sounds like the winter will not lack for projects to keep us busy.

Week ending 24 July 04 (Bob)

Arrival in Marmaris - Originally we had planned to cruise on to Gocek with its many bays, but with the potential of strong headwinds and lumpy seas, we decided to sprint for Marmaris for Bekah's first overnight sail. The breeze was light, but the seas even 3 miles from the coast were lumpy - rough even.  We concluded that there must be a west-setting current running counter to a westerly breeze, combined with capes that stick into the current stream - yucky!  We have settled into Marmaris Yacht Marina (36 49.69'N 28 18.64'E) the new, budget marina in town.  For short-term stays Netsel quoted us 27/day and Yacht Marina quoted 6/day, toilets were more up-scale but all else was about the same, not a difficult decision.

Kas - One of the prettiest towns along the coast with picturesque harbor, a secluded anchorage away from the loud discos, good restaurants with wonderful views, and souvenir shops for any budget.  We stayed for 2 days in the anchorage (36 12.19'N 29 37.94'E) and caught up with Paul and Cookie on Hanabella, last seen in Thailand.

Kalkan - This is a small bay with a cute town and sheltered anchorage.  We skipped the town in favor of the anchorage (36 15.63'N 29 22.11'E) and its clear water.  The water was clear - while snorkeling we could see large schools of fish and the bottom 25' away.  Judi and Bekah decided the sailboat pace had been a little slow and took a few turns around the anchorage riding rubber tubes behind a speed boat - the screams could be heard all the way to the hammock on Long Passages!  The day-trippers created an interesting pattern in the anchorage: in the morning there were a couple of us cruisers; by mid-afternoon there were 15 wooden Turkish gulets full of tourists soaking up the sun, and by sundown they were all gone for the night.  We stayed 3 days waiting for settled weather to move on.

Week ending 31 July 04 (Bob)

Ephesus - This is considered, by Turkey anyway, as the best preserved city of the Roman period.  In fact it is beautiful with wide boulevards, an impressive library, and another 100 years of excavation to determine what else is buried here.  We arrived there on a tour from Marmaris and spent 3 hot hours walking through the ruins in company with bus-loads of tourists. The theater is comparable to the coliseum in Rome and is in great shape.  The library was used to store up to 12,000 papyrus scrolls during the Roman period. 

Pamukkale - Next stop on our 2-day tour was the famous hot-water mineral springs at Pamukkale.  The Romans had built the city of Hierapolis near these springs, and they have been a tourist attraction ever since.  Hot water loaded with calcium bubbles out of the ground and pours over the hillside, creating pools and structures that look like snow sculptures.  We wandered where the Romans did 2000 years ago and ended the visit with a dip in the 85�F water - Bekah decided it tasted terrible.  After an obligatory stop at a carpet factory, the 2-day trip ended back in Marmaris in time for dinner.

Looking for a deal - Now that we are back in Marmaris, we are plying the Internet trying to find a reasonable way to island-hop through Greece on Bekah's way back to London.  So far, all ideas turn into thousands of dollars, so we may skip the islands and take a more direct way back - stay tuned.


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