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Eritrea is one of the poorest countries
in the world, yet was cleaner than many, honest, and easy to visit. We
thoroughly enjoyed our 2 weeks there and would visit it again given the
opportunity.
 |
Eritrea - The Country
-Eritrea has had a hard life so far, created out of
tribal areas by Italy at the end of the 19th Century, it has had to
fight for its life with Ethiopia, a much larger but poor land to
its South. It also occupies all of the coastline on the Red Sea,
thus landlocking Ethiopia. The United Nations tries to maintain the
peace between these countries, yet the people were warm and friendly. |
Assab
We anchored one night in this harbor, that had all of the
modern equipment needed for a port, but no business or activity that we could
see. We called on VHF and monitored all night, but there was no evidence
of harbor control or shipping movement. We ducked out early in the
morning, glad for the rest, but feeling sort of furtive.
Massawa
No lack of activity here, lots of shipping and yachts kept the
main port of Eritrea busy. Yachts were directed to a large basin, well
protected from weather and swell, and we enjoyed a week of sheltered rest while
we did some land touring. Massawa has seen better days, with bombed
buildings and antiquated government offices, but the people were friendly,
helpful and honest. We met 'Mike', who was the yachties' friend who
organized currency exchange, laundry, tours, fuel, and any other of our needs -
good service and we didn't mind if he got a cut of all of the action, he was
worth it.
Asmara
The  capital
of Eritrea was a surprise - a city with sophisticated cafe's, patisseries, wide
and clean streets - visible memories from the days that Italy dominated this
corner of Africa. Elsewhere in the city was evidence of the border
conflict with Ethiopia, UN signs and SUVs everywhere, the blue-helmeted soldiers
trying to maintain peace where conflict simmers under the surface. Interspersed
with conflict and sophistication was Africa, narrow streets, busy markets, and
the everyday life of people who were poor, but proud.
Keren
Our driver,  Solomon,
agreed to divert 100 km (for a price) and on surprisingly good roads, we found
ourselves in Keren, a small, country town reputed to have a camel market on this
day. We were greeted by small houses, narrow crowded streets, donkey carts
everywhere and no Western faces in sight. When Judi
stopped to admire  a
camel, we ended up negotiating $0.50 for a picture. The camel driver
however had other ideas, and cajoled us into mounting and posing - amid much
laughter from the crowd that had quickly collected. The camel market
included all types of livestock and was fascinating, but we managed to leave
without buying one. Many people approached us in the market, some with
smiles and others a little more tentative - but all were interested in seeing
themselves on the tiny screen of Judi's digital camera.
Next country along the coast was Sudan
- famous mostly for poverty and conflict, and more recently for the ongoing
disaster in Darfur.
|
capital
of Eritrea was a surprise - a city with sophisticated cafe's, patisseries, wide
and clean streets - visible memories from the days that Italy dominated this
corner of Africa. Elsewhere in the city was evidence of the border
conflict with Ethiopia, UN signs and SUVs everywhere, the blue-helmeted soldiers
trying to maintain peace where conflict simmers under the surface. Interspersed
with conflict and sophistication was Africa, narrow streets, busy markets, and
the everyday life of people who were poor, but proud. 
Solomon,
agreed to divert 100 km (for a price) and on surprisingly good roads, we found
ourselves in Keren, a small, country town reputed to have a camel market on this
day. We were greeted by small houses, narrow crowded streets, donkey carts
everywhere and no Western faces in sight. When Judi
stopped to admire 
a
camel, we ended up negotiating $0.50 for a picture. The camel driver
however had other ideas, and cajoled us into mounting and posing - amid much
laughter from the crowd that had quickly collected. The camel market
included all types of livestock and was fascinating, but we managed to leave
without buying one. Many people approached us in the market, some with
smiles and others a little more tentative - but all were interested in seeing
themselves on the tiny screen of Judi's digital camera.
